300 Cyclists Explore the Beauty of Detroit
More than 100 cyclists gathered at the foot of the Ambassador Bridge on Sunday, June 12, to embark on a journey that until three years ago, was unheard of. The annual Bike the Bridge ride saw the Ambassador close down a lane of traffic for half an hour while cyclists from Windsor and Essex County, and some from as far away as Toronto and Newmarket, made the slow ride up the incline and the exhilarating descent into Detroit.
This is the third year for the event, and it’s important to note that this is the only day you can bike into Detroit from Windsor. The only other way to see Detroit by bike is to drive your ride over in your car, which eliminates the opportunity for those Windsorites who do not own a vehicle. The city of Detroit is a beautiful place, and I’m a firm believer that the best way to sight-see is on two wheels, pedaling at a leisurely pace.
Including the Americans that participated, there were over 300 riders crossing the bridge going north. Once into the U.S. of A., the pack headed east through Corktown, the oldest neighbourhood in Detroit. Founded in the 1830s by Irish immigrants escaping the potato famine, the historical significance of the area was palpable. The centuries-old bricked roads jostled the riders just enough to make us appreciate the asphalt of the 20th century.
We headed through downtown, under the giant skyscrapers and through the leagues of construction. The streets were quiet, as it was early Sunday morning. We rode past Rosa Parks Boulevard and Cass Avenue, under the shadows of the Renaissance Center and over to the Dequindre Cut Greenway Trail. We followed this south to William G. Milliken State Park for some eats, catered by Edibles Rex. A warm meal, fresh fruit, and biscuits and gravy were the perfect breakfast to get us ready for our tour of Detroit.
Participants were allowed to choose from two tours – a short, 15 mile (24km) ride around eastern Detroit, or a longer, 45 mile (72km) tour, which included a full loop around Belle Isle. I chose to take the shorter tour, because I didn’t train for such a long bike ride, and I wanted to be going slowly enough to take photos along the way.
Our first stop, at the historic Eastern Market (established in 1891), opened many Windsorites eyes to how successful an urban outdoor market could be. Each Saturday, we were told by tour guide Alexander Froelich, 40,000 people show up to buy from over 250 vendors. From there we rode over MacArthur Bridge to Belle Isle. While on the island, we got to check out the spectacular James Scott Memorial Fountain, funded by bad-boy real estate tycoon James Scott and built in 1925. Next we rode over to the Alpheus Starkey Williams Monument for some snacks and group shot.
After leaving Belle Isle, our tour took us through a couple of notable neighbourhoods – English Village and Indian Village. Many of the city’s original automotive millionaires built their mansions here, and the building designs are brilliant. Architects like Stratton & Baldwin, Chittenden & Kotting and Donaldson & Meier erected stately Tudor-Revival homes for those who could afford it in the early 20th century.
On the way to these affluent villages, though, we were taken through some not-so-nice neighbourhoods, full of burnt-out homes, abandoned industrial buildings and vacant lots. These are as visually stunning as the historic mansions, in my opinion, and I felt fortunate to see some of these structures before they are completely lost to the wrecking ball.
Our last stop was in Elmwood Cemetery, the resting place of many notable Detroiters and the home of one of the most violent skirmishes of Pontiac’s Rebellion in the 18th century. The Battle of Bloody Run was fought on the banks of Parent Creek on July 31st, 1763. British troops attempted a surprise attack on Pontiac’s camp, but failed miserably due to an information leak (possibly by some French settlers). After the creek ran red with the blood of the dead and wounded, it was known as Bloody Run. Today, the creek is hidden from view, running under the streets of Detroit. The only place it’s visible is in Elmwood Cemetery.
After riding around the graveyard in silence, amazed at the size of some of the monuments, we made our way back to Milliken State Park to load up the bikes and head home. Fatigue from seven hours of bike touring around Detroit didn’t stop me from making one last excursion, though. Across from the park stands the Globe Trading Co. warehouse, a giant abandoned building that, upon first perusal, seemed locked up tight. A short ride around the block revealed a gaping hole in the northwest corner, and a friend and I tip-toed in. Although this was an unplanned stop, it became the highlight of my day. The vastness of the building, the colourful graffiti and warm tones of the rusted metal works, the random objects left by squatters, and the light streaming in from gaps in the roof resulted in some of the most dynamic images I’ve ever had the privilege to capture.
We reached Canadian soil by about 4:30pm, and although the day was long and tiring, the participants all said they had an amazing time. Most said they’d be joining the tour again next year, when the Canadians will play host to the Americans, and it’s rumoured an overnight camping option will be added to the list of tour options. For those of you who missed out on this event and are interested in touring Detroit by bike, check out the Tour De Troit, happening this fall on Saturday, September 24, starting from the historic Michigan Central Station.
To see more photos of the ride, including more images taken in the Globe Trading Co. warehouse, view my photo set on Flickr.
